Langdale FRCC

Description:

Langdale is without a doubt one of the finest of the Lakeland valleys and is easily reached from the M6 motorway; the climber is well catered for with pubs, cafes and campsites. One downside of its popularity with walkers and climbers is that its car parks tend to fill up very quickly on a sunny morning. As a large proportion of the crags facing south the valley is an all year round venue.

The valley has immensely varied Trad climbing of outstanding quality across the full spread of grades; there is something here for everyone, from Mod to E8 and from short single pitches to all day multi-pitch adventures.  Down near the valley floor “roadside” crags offer superb convenience climbing, of these Raven Crag Buttress is the stand-out crag where amazing Severes such as Original Route and Revelation share space with the desperates of Trilogy Wall. A little higher White Ghyll slashes down the fellside, its west facing side forms an outstanding and intimidating crag which retains its atmosphere even when in full sun; there are a couple of easier routes but the bulk of the climbing is in the VS to E3 range with a particularly fine collection at E1 – E2.

Higher still Pavey Ark and Gimmer Crag are two contrasting yet sunny mountain crags. Pavey is a big crag, from a distance it looks broken and scrappy but on closer inspection its true scale is revealed. There are routes of all grades on  immaculate rock, although moss affects a few it is rarely a problem. An easy scramble, Jack’s Rake, bisects the crag, by combining a route below the rake with one above you can enjoy 150m of top notch climbing. Gimmer Crag is undoubtedly one of England’s finest crags – where to start? The stats speak or themselves, of the 79 routes only 8 get no stars  and there are 21 *** and a further 32 are **; everyone is catered for as they are spread across the grades from VD to E4 with a particular concentrations of stunners at around S, VS and E1.

The high mountain crags on Bowfell and Crinkle Crags normally face anywhere between E and N and offer an altogether more austere experience when compared to Gimmer and Pavey. The likes of Shelter Crag, Bowfell Buttress, North Buttress, Flat Crags and Neckband Crag all offer outstanding climbing but being shady it is wise to give them time to come into condition after rain.

Once you have sampled Langdale Rock you will return again and again and ……