Depot Climbing Athlete Erin McNeice wins first IFSC Gold

First up, the IFSC World Cup series 2025 has seen the implementation of a new scoring system. Both Boulder and Lead now have 24 semi-final spots, with 8 competitors progressing to the finals. Scoring systems for Boulder will now follow a system similar to that seen in the Paris Olympics, with 25 points for a top, 10 points for a zone, and 0.1 points deducted for each unsuccessful attempt (IFSC, 2025). 

The Keqiao IFSC Boulder World Cup took place on the 18th – 20th of April 2025. After their first senior podium in the European Championships 2024, we were psyched to see Dayan Akhtar climb in this World Cup series and from the get-go, we were glued to their performance with Dayan topping all five boulders in qualifications, four of which were flashes.

This put Dayan in a superb 3rd place, moving into the semi-finals, just 0.1 points behind Dohyun Lee of Korea in 2nd. Semi-finals saw four hard boulder problems set for the athletes, with only one athlete topping all four boulders, and one athlete topping three of four boulders.

Dayan topped two boulders and achieved the zone on a third. This strong performance left Dayan in 10th place in the semi-finals, just 0.4 points off a place in the finals. Dayan was so close to a place in the finals, and we are excited to see what’s to come for them in the upcoming Salt Lake City World Cup on the 23rd-25th of May. Well done Dayan, and good luck!

In the women’s category, 20-year-old Emma Edwards made their senior Boulder World Cup debut following a successful Youth European and World series in 2024, being crowned European Bouldering Youth Champion. Emma put out a great performance, with two tops and one zone in the qualifications round, giving them a total score of 59.5, and placing 35th.

With just 24 spots available in the semi-finals, this was the end of Emma’s first senior Boulder World Cup of 2025. This is a wicked effort on Emma’s senior World Cup debut, and we are psyched to see what else they do this season. Good luck!

You have no doubt heard of Erin McNeice, and if, like us, you have been itching to see Erin climb in this year’s World Cup series after achieving an incredible 5th place in the 2024 Paris Olympics combined Boulder and Lead, this World Cup series so far has not disappointed. Erin climbs with grit, determination, and elegance and with a hard winter of training having paid off, Erin breezed through the qualifications with 84.2 points, placing them 7th.

Semi-finals were no different, with yet another strong performance gaining Erin another 7th place with 44.9 points and a spot in the finals. Finals in Keqiao saw eight climbers pushing hard at 4 challenging blocs of varying styles. Two of the four boulders didn’t see a top achieved by any athlete, which left it a close final down to zones achieved and number of attempts for boulders topped.

Erin topped one boulder and reached the zone on two others, the same as fellow competitor, Oriane Bertone of France. However, Oriane topped the boulder in one fewer attempt than Erin, scoring them 0.1 points ahead of GBR’s Erin McNeice. This close performance resulted in Bronze for Erin, Silver for Oriane, and a Gold medal for Annie Sanders of the USA. An amazing result for Erin, who is just getting started this season.

The Wuijiang IFSC Lead World Cup took place on the 25th- 27th of April. In this, we had Depot Climbing athlete Erin McNeice competing hard for a place in the finals.

Erin breezed through qualifications and semi-finals, achieving a top on the 15m wall, securing her place in finals with the exact same points as Chaehyun Seo of Korea and Annie Sanders of the USA. This meant that in finals, if the three athletes all reached the same hold, it would come down to time as to who would take gold. No pressure…

 In the finals, we saw some exceptional climbing, beta breaking and extraordinary strength from all competitors. Annie Sanders took a fall high up the wall, scoring 39+. Erin McNeice showed that all their training has more than paid off, and performed excellently, falling in the last section and scoring 41.

The podium was therefore determined by Chaehyun Seo’s attempt on the route, and we were kept on the edge of our seats. Chaehyun fell at the exact same place as Erin, and so also scored 41 points, meaning gold was determined by who climbed the quickest. Unbelievably, both climbers fell from the same hold, at 4 minutes 26 seconds.

This meant that uniquely, there was a tie for gold for GBR’s Erin McNeice and KOR’s Chaehyun Seo. This was a moment in climbing and British history, as Erin became the first British woman to medal in both Boulder and Lead at a World Cup, and marked Erin’s first ever lead World Cup medal, and first ever World Cup gold medal.

An absolutely astounding performance and achievement, both personally and for British climbing. Erin wrote on her Instagram, “My first ever gold. I am so unbelievably happy. And what’s even better? I get to share it. [Chaehyun], you are a big inspiration to me. It is an honour to share this gold with you.”

This highlights not only Erin’s achievement but also their sportsmanship. We are so proud of you Erin, and excited to see what else is to come! Congratulations and good luck in the next IFSC World Cup in Bali!